9:00 am I leave from Ascea, from the Porta Rosa hotel, which might raise some doubts as a name, but it was a nice surprise for the high quality-price ratio and the courtesy, which is not insignificant. Think wanting to get some water for the day from the tap, the check in lady grabbed a two liter bottle of water and told me safe travels, she didn’t want a penny. Today will be a field day, but to avoid errors and inconsistent indications from the navigators at my disposal, I decide to operate the “old way”, that is, ask on the street and look carefully on the map at the type of road I want to take. With the help of the check-in lady last night I manage to identify the route to take. In order not to also have to suffer interruptions caused by landslides, I will have to follow the regional road 447 starting from the center of Ascea, up there, and then always continue with the view of the sea. I set off again, the climb is immediately difficult, but I make it. On the left, the archaeological site of Velia near the watchtower. As suggested, I am not fooled by other signs indicating my destination.
1 - The Ascea watchtower in the archaeological park of Velia
2 - Ascea Marina where I spent the night on the road that climbs steeply to the center of Ascea
3 - Part of the collapsed road in the Cilento National Park with the climb that forced me to get off the bicycle and struggle a lot even on foot due to its exaggerated slope
I arrive in the center of Ascea and take the road that runs along the coast, always having the sea on the right. I don’t know if the young lady from last night knew, but on this road too I found a landslide closure with a ban on transit, only for emergency vehicles. But I find two cars, one in one direction and one in the other. Evidently we pass by and I’m on my bike. There is actually a landslide in progress, but the road is passable even if slightly narrow, what you can’t do is stay in the saddle, the slope is such that I even struggle to get off the bike to continue on foot. I let go of the handlebars with one hand to be able to raise my leg to overcome the bicycle pole and even with the brake on, due to the steep slope the bicycle slides with the wheels locked backwards inexorably. I have to anchor myself to the guardrail somehow and proceed very carefully. The slope is enormous, there is no asphalt, but concrete and yesterday’s climbs, which made me sweat a lot, are nothing in comparison. The cars also proceed in first gear and go up with the engine screaming, while those that go down have the engine blocked and I would also like to see what condition the clutches will be in at the end. The views of the sea are enchanting and the sun illuminates the landscape and makes everything more beautiful. We are in the Cilento National Park and the vegetation is truly extraordinary, it almost seems to me that it is different from what I have found so far, it’s a shame I’m not an expert. I proceed through continuous ups and downs having reached the highest altitude.
4 - Pisciotta village
5- Palinuro. One of the beaches
I arrive at the town of Pisciotta, which honestly made me laugh a lot and reminded me of my cousins to whom I had sent a nice sign of the town. (very difficult to explain to foreign friends the reason for my laughter, it’s a play on words between the name of the city and a very childish bodily function). It is a medieval town perched on a hill and honestly presents all its beauty in the sun. It also seems well inhabited, the center with the market is very lively, I would never have thought it from frequenting these streets. I travel not alone, but almost alone and the memory of the chaotic traffic on the streets of Rome is very distant, I pedal calmly despite the tiredness. Descent towards Palinuro, with very beautiful beaches, but seeing only modern houses I decide, I don’t know if rightly or wrongly, not to enter the town and to take the road that will take me towards the most important climb of the day. I saw while I was tracing the route that I have to stay on the provincial road 17 and then at a certain point take the state road 18 Tirreno Inferiore which should be my route until I reach Villa San Giovanni. And in fact, although there are more than 350 km to go, I start to see the signs indicating Reggio Calabria and this makes me feel closer to my destination.
6 - The valley with cows and mountain landscape just one kilometer from the sea
7 - The valley with mountain landscape just one kilometer from the sea
8 - The cyclamens almost on the seashore
I enter a valley that is crossed by a river, we are less than 1 km from the sea as the crow flies and it’s like being in the mountains. Cows grazing with bells ringing, real rock walls with a glacial cirque at the bottom, or at least that’s what I understood. At the edges of the road there are myriads of cyclamens which differ from ours in a slightly lighter colour. After a narrow passage and a gorge, the road begins to climb more steeply, passing under the variant of state road 18, a motorway that the Maps navigator continues to suggest to me, which is impossible as there is a ban on bicycles. and also for motorcycles up to a certain engine capacity. I stop at a petrol station for a sandwich which is today’s meal.
After the coffee I start the climb again, it will take me to around 350 m of altitude, all with a moderate gradient that I tackle with a light gear, I don’t want to break my legs. I pass through a town that is so similar to our mountain towns, what can we say about Mezzaselva near Asiago. Two ladies, perhaps not yet fifty years old, walk blissfully with a swinging gait in the center of the street. A little ring of the bell and they don’t move. He reminds me of when I was a child walking through Mezzaselva and I want to shout: “uuuu Italy, Mora, move ooh, ooh!” (typical ways of the shepherd who shows the way to his cows by calling them by name and emitting guttural sounds or whistles). But I hold my tongue and remain silent, they would never understand what I’m referring to.
9 - during the meal I observe the medieval village of San Severino di Centola under renovation and restoration
10 - The road pass of the day with the town of Roccagloriosa
I got to the pass, honestly without having made much effort, it was much more the fear of not making it than anything else.
Above the pass there is a beautiful little village perched on the hill next to it. I also ask for further directions and both two gentlemen at the bar and a bus driver confirm the right direction. I go down to take state road 18 and from there I don’t leave it until I get to Sapri.
11 - Statue dedicated to the Gleaner of Sapri. The poem and legend tells of the undertaking of 300 men who set out from northern Italy with the intention of unifying Italy, still divided into various states, in 1857. The undertaking failed and all 300 died, also due to opposition of the peasants themselves loyal to the rulers of the Bourbon family. History made them heroes, but here in the south not everyone agrees even now!
12 - In any case, here in Sapri, they launch their cry and curse (sorry) against all wars with this artistic work by the local sculptor Angelo Accardi.
Now I am under the statue of the gleaner, the one who saw 300 young and strong men disembark and die, in memory of Carlo Pisacane’s attempt to push the inhabitants to rebel against the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies of the Bourbons. The poem makes us believe that the gleaner, a humble and very tiring profession, had believed in Carlo Pisacane and perhaps had even fallen in love with him, but in reality the 300 had no help from the population, indeed some sources state that the inhabitants he defeated the 300 and not the Bourbon troops. The peasants had no interest in becoming part of the nascent Italy, they had the lands owned by the State in perpetual emphyteusis, in short, almost a sort of communism. History is made by the winners, let’s always remember this!
Could this also be why there is a very eloquent installation next to the gleaner, even if in English? The author of the work of art wants to launch his unequivocal cry against all wars.
13 - Be careful, don’t go along the seafront, splashes are coming!
14 - The sunset in Sapri
They distract me from this thought of the children. They play to avoid the waves that crash on the wall that protects the seafront, but the power of the waves is such that it still wets the entire avenue. Tomorrow I will leave Campania, I will pass through Basilicata to enter Calabria. With the return to solar time I will have one hour less light, let’s hope for the best!
@LuigiZ @TravellerG @DeniGu @renata1 @PattyBlack @ErmesT @AntonellaGr @helga19 @CAAG1959 @DENIT33
